Rospeath Lane

[ginger_giant]

A further thought, rather than a chain, lengths of threaded rods with bolts let into the horizontal leg braces, would be easier to adjust?

Hmm.... that is a thought. Will certainly give finer adjustment.

[Terry Bendall]

A further thought, rather than a chain, lengths of threaded rods with bolts let into the horizontal leg braces, would be easier to adjust?

Possibly but it will take a lot longer to set up since the nuts would have to be wound along the threaded rod. The holes that the threaded rods fit through would need to be oversized and drilled at an angle so the rod remains horizontal. The rods would have to be separate from the trestles so easy to misplace or leave at home. 30 years of taking layouts to exhibitions has shown that a chain is easy and quick to set up. In use the trestles are all set to the same height and the baseboards set up. I use a spirit level to get these level but some might use a laser level. The chain can be adjusted one link at a time which is sufficient fine adjustment even for P4/

I'm also considering whether the trestles need some levelling devices adding to the legs.

Not needed. Just adjust the height as needed. Three legged things will always stand firm.

I'm also thinking if shortening one or both of the pair of legs then adding a height adjustment device would help level the layout across its depth.

Not needed. A long time ago I cut some pieces of MDF to about 70mm square and of various thicknesses 4mm, 6mm, 8mm 10mm and 12mm, about six of each thickness. These live in the bottom of the crate that contains the controllers and leads so I know they are always there when needed which is rare.

The KISS principle applies.

Terry Bendall

[timlewis]

For simple/crude height adjustment, builders merchants (possibly even the likes of B&Q/Wickes) sell bags of plastic shims that range from 1mm to 6mm thick. They are colour-coded by thickness, and are ridged on one side so that they don't slip. I don't immediately have one to hand, but I guess they're about 75mm by 25mm or something like that. I find them very useful (although I'm still contemplating some kind of more permanently attached height adjustment for my layout).

[Neil Smith]

Possibly but it will take a lot longer to set up since the nuts would have to be wound along the threaded rod. The holes that the threaded rods fit through would need to be oversized and drilled at an angle so the rod remains horizontal. The rods would have to be separate from the trestles so easy to misplace or leave at home.

All true Terry - I was envisaging the threaded rod with its nut being removable via a slot or somesuch, but that is a good point about things that can be left at home..! If you've found out that simply hooking on a chain through different links provides enough adjustment, then that does sound a far better solution.

[ginger_giant]

The KISS principle applies.
Terry Bendall

Thank you Terry for reminding me that "Keeping it simple stupid" sometimes gives the best and easiest solutions.

[ginger_giant]

I've been thinking of using cork as an underlay but now wondering if it is necessary. Almost all the baseboard will be covered in cork with no shoulder required on the track bed. I still consider myself as a novice in layout construction and I'm starting to consider laying the track directly on the baseboard. What are the consequences of doing this?

[davebradwell]

I did this once to drop sidings below the main but it's noisy - gives a very hard ride and even after ballasting the main it's still more grumbly. This with fully sprung stock - locos with a fixed axle would be worse.

Top is just 6mm ply - a mistake. Have wondered about sticking bits of ply underneath with contact adhesive, the idea being the thin sticky layer would absorb the vibration and act as a damper.

DaveB

[ginger_giant]

I did this once to drop sidings below the main but it's noisy - gives a very hard ride and even after ballasting the main it's still more grumbly. This with fully sprung stock - locos with a fixed axle would be worse.

Top is just 6mm ply - a mistake. Have wondered about sticking bits of ply underneath with contact adhesive, the idea being the thin sticky layer would absorb the vibration and act as a damper.

DaveB

Did wonder about noise level. I've decided on 9mm ply as baseboard top, mainly for added rigidity.

[ginger_giant]

My initial intention was to construct Baseboard Two, the board with most turnouts on, first. Then thinking that the most critical element will be lining up the four tracks that run into the Running Shed I thought I'd start with Baseboard One. I've been taking my time laying and relating the Templot plan on the board. By doing so I realised the turntable was very close to the back edge. So, I slightly adjusted the track plan by moving the turntable half an inch towards the front of the layout. In doing so should slightly improve the visual look by giving more space for buffers on the turntable run off roads. Below is the current state of play.

Inspection pits.jpg

Baseboard top cut to shape, hole cut to take the turntable, and all holes cut for the inspection pits. Section cut out at top left is for the raised track bed for the coal sidings behind the coaling tower. I'm hoping to have the top mounted on its subbase by the end of the weekend, fingers crossed.

Progress is slow and I'm currently about two weeks behind a schedule I've set myself. The plan is to take Baseboard One to SolRail (Scalefour Cumbria) as a work in progress demonstration. By then, there should be some track and buildings in place on the board.

[Terry Bendall]

Did wonder about noise level. I've decided on 9mm ply as baseboard top, mainly for added rigidity.

I used 9mm for a new and fairly small project last year but I felt it was too thin. It was used because the main feature was a loco shed with several inspection pits between the tracks. My normal thickness is 12mm.

At exhibitions you cannot hear any noise from movement of trains but it is obviously noticeable at home.

Terry Bendall

[Julian Roberts]

I've been thinking of using cork as an underlay but now wondering if it is necessary. Almost all the baseboard will be covered in cork with no shoulder required on the track bed. I still consider myself as a novice in layout construction and I'm starting to consider laying the track directly on the baseboard. What are the consequences of doing this?

I was having many of the same questions as you!

There are four pages of useful discussion here

viewtopic.php?t=4066

[ginger_giant]

I was having many of the same questions as you!

There are four pages of useful discussion here

viewtopic.php?t=4066

Thanks Julian that's a very interesting read. It would seem laying rack directly on the baseboard is not the phopa I thought it might be.

But on further thought I've decided to lay a thin layer of cork underlay. This is for two reasons - the first one being the construction and mounting of the turntable. The second one being I might require a shoulder on parts of the trackbed so thought it best to build in the option even if it's not required in the end.

[ginger_giant]

As mentioned in a previous blog, I'm using plywood salvaged from the baseboards of the previous version of Rospeath Lane. I also decided to replicate the baseboard construction. I'm hoping that the two scenic baseboards will be relatively light considering their size.

20240428_174637.jpg

Baseboard subbase being glued in position

20240501_085429.jpg

Scenic area of baseboard complete

20240501_165850.jpg

The area without a plywood top will not be part of the scenic area. It will be painted black and used for descriptive text about the model.

20240501_170427.jpg

Checking how the coal wagons will look on the sidings behind the coaling stage

My main concern during May will be getting Tredethy Wharf ready for Scalefour Crewe. The hope was to have both Scenic Baseboards built by the end of April. Best laid plans and all that eh.

[TonyMont]

Hi Ian,
Your baseboard looks very good and I look forward to seeing it when finished. Did you cut the pits with a jigsaw? What sort of blade did you use.The cuts look very clean, I have a similar area to cut, but I am not sure which way to go.

[ginger_giant]

Hi Ian,
Your baseboard looks very good and I look forward to seeing it when finished. Did you cut the pits with a jigsaw? What sort of blade did you use.The cuts look very clean, I have a similar area to cut, but I am not sure which way to go.

Thank you Tony, one down three baseboards to go. The inspection pits cutouts are not perfect and there was a little sanding required on the underneath cut edge but they will do the job. A jigsaw was used with a 132-1 HCS blade. Hope that helps.

[Terry Bendall]

I have a similar area to cut, but I am not sure which way to go.

A jig saw is a good way to do this job, A useful tip is to clamp a piece of wood to the timber to act as a guide to give a straight cut.

Terry Bendall

[ginger_giant]

A jig saw is a good way to do this job, A useful tip is to clamp a piece of wood to the timber to act as a guide to give a straight cut.

Terry Bendall

We all live and learn...Next time I'll use a piece of wood as a guide...
Cheers Terry.

[TonyMont]

Hi Ian,
Thanks that helps, and thanks Terry I will use a guide.
Regards Tony.